Coffee should be
black as hell, strong as death and sweet as love, runs a
Turkish proverb. But few imbibers realise that the
caffeine within is also the world’s most popular drug.
“Caffeine is the most frequently self-administered
drug in use worldwide today,” says James Bibb, an
assistant professor of psychiatry at UT Southwestern
Medical Centre in Dallas, Texas. Bibb is one of the
authors of a study, just published in the science
journal Nature, which shows that coffee affects
the brain in a similar way to cocaine.
According to Bibb and his colleagues, the caffeine in
coffee blocks a protein found in the brain called
DARPP-32, which has been known to play a role in drug
addiction. Altering this biochemical pathway prolongs
and intensifies the effects of low doses of caffeine.
Despite this study, “we know little about how caffeine
works in the brain, whether with the kick from a double
espresso or small jolts from tea or cola”, says Bibb.
We have been drinking coffee for at least 3,000 years,
beginning with a dark and bitter brew from the raw
berries; now our choice extends to skinny lattes,
caramel macchiatos and frappuccinos, as well as the
standard flat black and long white. The average American
drinks 4kg of coffee a year — nothing compared with
the Scandinavians, whose consumption exceeds 12kg a
person annually. But as our coffee consumption increases,
the messages we are receiving about coffee become more
perplexing.
One of the main areas of confusion concerns caffeine
— a cup of coffee contains between 30mg and 120mg. The
drug is also found in tea and some fizzy drinks, such as
Coca-Cola and, although caffeine is said to heighten
mental performance, it can also raise blood pressure.
Coffee also contains more than 800 compounds, and new
research suggests that they may protect us from cancer.
Is coffee good for you?
Yes — but in moderation. “In general,
there are not very many good studies which show the
negative effects of coffee,” says Dr Peter Martin,
Professor of Psychiatry and Pharmacology and director of
the department for addiction medicine at Vanderbilt
University Medical Centre, in Nashville, Tennessee.
“What people are studying is the effect of caffeine,
not coffee. Coffee is much more than a tablet of
caffeine.”
Our count of the number of aromatic compounds in
coffee has reached 800 and is still increasing, as
analytical methods become more accurate. The furans are
the most predominant group of compounds and these have
caramel-like odours; the second-largest group, the
pyrazines, contribute to the toasted flavours. But what
Martin and his colleague, Dr James May, are interested
in are chlorogenic acids. Vanderbilt University has
recently been awarded a grant to create the Institute
for Coffee Research and one of the first studies that
has been carried out is on antioxidants in coffee.
Roasting coffee oxidises chlorogenic acid, which is
broken down in the body to form dihydrocaffeic acid.
This compound is an antioxidant and May has proved that
it is preferentially taken up the body’s cells.
Antioxidants can help us to live longer in a healthier
state and may be found in concentrations four times
higher in coffee than in tea, so drinking coffee (in
moderation) does appear to be good for you.
Does coffee increase the risk of a heart attack?
Maybe. Scientists from Duke University Medical
Centre in Durham, North Carolina, say that four to five
cups of coffee in the morning contribute to elevated
blood pressure and higher levels of stress hormones that
last well into the evening. On average, the stress
hormone adrenalin increases by 32 per cent.
Dr James Lane, who prepared the results of the study,
says: “Moderate caffeine consumption makes a person
react like he or she is having a very stressful day. If
you combine the effects of real stress with the
artificial boost in stress hormones from caffeine, then
you have compounded the effects considerably.” This
increase in blood pressure, even though slight, can be
clinically significant, as it is associated with an
increased risk of a stroke or coronary heart disease.
The risk of heart disease can also be increased by
substances other than caffeine, such as terpenoids —
which are partially removed from coffee only when it is
filtered — which contribute to an increased level of
cholesterol. However, Dr Collette Kelly, of the British
Nutrition Institute, says: “There is not enough
research to say, hand on heart, that coffee increases
the risk of a heart attack.”
Does coffee cause cancer?
No — possibly the contrary. In 1997 the
American Institute of Cancer Research, in Washington and
the World Cancer Research Fund in London published a
comprehensive review which concluded that coffee was not
carcinogenic.
Indeed, coffee may help to prevent cancer of the
colon. An analysis of 17 studies on colorectal cancer
and coffee dating from 1960 to 1990 indicated that the
risk was lowered by 24 per cent among those who drank
four cups of coffee a day. In other words, coffee does
not appear to be responsible for cancer, and may even
confer some protective benefit.
Is it safe to drink coffee during pregnancy?
Yes, in moderation. Researchers at the National
Institute of Child Health and Human Development (NICHD),
in Bethesda, Maryland, warn that four cups of coffee a
day double the risk of miscarriage. Caffeine can also
cross the foetal blood-brain barrier and can cause
seizures in new-born babies.
This damaging effect of caffeine has been witnessed
in animals, leading the American Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) to recommend that pregnant women
limit their coffee intake. One to two cups of coffee a
day seems acceptable for pregnant women, says the NICHD.
Can coffee prevent Alzheimer’s disease?
Yes. Recent research from the Faculty of Medicine
in Lisbon has shown that coffee can reduce the risk of
contracting Alzheimer’s disease. The study compared 54
Alzheimer’s sufferers with 54 who had not contracted
the disease, matched for age and sex. They found that
people who did not have Alzheimer’s had been drinking
nearly 200mg of caffeine a day for 20 years — that’s
just over two cups of brewed coffee a day. There is also
evidence to suggest that it can reduce the risk of
contracting Parkinson’s disease.
Is coffee really a stimulant?
Yes. The caffeine in coffee can increase mental
alertness, according to Professor Ian Hindmarch, from
the Medical Research Centre at the University of Sussex.
In one study, he and his colleagues gave 30
volunteers one to two cups of tea and coffee four times
a day. Hindmarch found that repeated doses of caffeine
increased cognitive performance throughout the day and
although coffee had more effect than tea, it disrupted
sleep more.
Psychologists at the University of Bristol have also
shown that coffee reduces the malaise we feel when we
have a cold because it enhances mental alertness.
Can coffee enhance athletic performance?
Yes — especially for occasional tipplers. There
is substantial evidence to indicate that the caffeine in
coffee increases athletic performance.
For example, in 1992 a team of researchers from the
Sport Science Department at Canterbury Christ Church
University College showed that coffee given to
middle-distance athletes decreased the time it took them
to run 1,500m and increased the speed at which they were
able to run a final one-minute sprint.
This year, physiologists from Canada’s Defence
Research and Development establishment proved that
caffeine improves time to exhaustion, increases heart
rate and boosts oxygen consumption during exercise.
However, people unaccustomed to drinking coffee receive
the greatest benefit.
How many cups should we drink a day?
Moderation rules. “You have to know your
body and know how much you’re comfortable with,”
says Martin. “Ultimately, moderate amounts — two to
four cups a day — won’t harm you and may be
beneficial.”
Kelly says that we should not worry about our coffee
consumption. “It depends on the strength of the
caffeine in the coffee,” she says, “but up to four
cups of coffee a day should be OK.” Martin adds a
warning caveat: “Most people drink their coffee loaded
with milk and sugar and you have to ask yourself, can
you afford those calories?”
Is filter coffee better for you than instant
coffee?
Psychologically, yes. Blending, roasting and
brewing all contribute to coffee’s complex chemical
composition. For example, brewing creates hundreds of
compounds. Each one weighs less than 0.3 per cent of the
dry weight of the coffee but may still contribute
significantly to coffee’s effects, and may act in
tandem to enhance the bean’s health benefits.
Most instant coffee is prepared by freeze-drying and,
as a result, many of these compounds will be retained.
“My sense is that there is no appreciable difference
between instant and brewed coffee if they are in similar
concentration,” says Martin. However, decaffeinated
instant coffee has between 30-50 per cent fewer
compounds than filtered or caffeinated instant.
Hindmarch points out: “Instant coffee doesn’t
have the same taste as brewed coffee and the taste can
add a lot to the psychological effect. Drinking instant
coffee is not like sitting down and having a latte.”
He adds that some of coffee’s properties can be
attributed to psychology. “We wouldn’t say:
‘Let’s go to the bar and have a caffeine pill’,”
he says, concluding that coffee’s taste and its
preparation all contribute to how we react to our daily
brew.
How much caffeine is in a cup?
The amount of caffeine in any single serving of
coffee depends on the variety of bean, where it was
grown, and how it was roasted ground, and brewed.
Full-bodied, dark-roast coffee may contain less
caffeine than coffee made from milder, lightly roasted
beans. In general, arabica beans tend to have less
caffeine and taste milder than robusta beans.